If dining is part theatre, then Omnia has as much stage presence as the contents of the “chariot de fromage” that roams the floor. But it’s a golden-hued duck crown garnished with pine needles that really steals the show at the table. The room’s chandeliers, greenery, glass ceilings and leather banquettes could easily intimidate. But polished floor staff eschew any sense of snobbery as they demystify European bistro classicism.

Start with a smoked ocean trout cigar or a souffle of Comte and black truffle, fortified with madeira. Stay the course for whole flounder doused in beurre noisette, with lemon and capers adding vital acidity.

Pastry skills are also high-end, evident in a perfectly executed liquid-centre cheesecake served with silky cassis sorbet. The cocktails are timeless, the wine cellar deep, and the somms know their savagnin from their sauvignon. The definition of accomplished.

Must-order: Comte and black truffle souffle with madeira sauce.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.