Brand new in 2024, Lucia has clearly found its groove. Shiny happy people order caviar and martinis; laughter and clinking glasses tinkle from luxurious booths and cosy tables. White-jacketed, white-sneakered waitstaff spirit away coats, unfurl napkins and pour barolo.

The menu starts with eclectic snacks, including a “taco” of wafer-thin kohlrabi wrapping a zesty mix of lobster, avocado and finger lime; and buttery bites of braised beef short-rib deliciously daubed with salty taramasalata. The best mains are fine-dining level, like tender crisp-skinned duck with quince and caramelised-fennel crust.

Lucia’s handsome dining room and striking bar are elegant spaces in an unlikely office-block location, screened from Kings Way by creamy sheer drapes and an upbeat soundtrack. Sample the long list of amari to finish, perhaps alongside apple crumble and clotted cream or a tempting take on a Magnum ice-cream.

Good to know: Lucia’s restaurant siblings are Riserva, Baia di Vino and San Lorenzo.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.