The padded barstools are full, a turntable spins vinyl, tables are draped in linen and the warm woody room has a convivial hum. It’s barely 5pm, yet this cosy wine bar is already jumping with people enjoying aperitivo. Staff ferry Barolo and bronze-crumbed lasagne croquettes to pavement diners.

“It’s a very busy place,” laughs one of the charming young staff who keeps the place purring. Devotees of this Scopri sibling love its well-executed Italian classics – from skewered saltimbocca to tiramisu – paired with largely Italian wines. There’s an exemplary fritto misto of golden fried calamari, whiting and prawns; there’s parmesan-dusted pappardelle ripiene stuffed with field mushrooms and sauced with balsamic, sage and smoked almonds.

Griddled sweet peppers from the owners’ farm come with salty ribbons of lardo. Hazelnut semifreddo, encased in dark chocolate and praline like a Magnum, makes the perfect arrivederci.

Good to know: When you book, pre-order a loaf of the fabulous house bread ($10) to take home.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.