With the bi-folds open to a view across Lennox Head Beach, Shelter could simply phone it in with gussied-up pub meals and still be a prime spot. But chef Cameron Irving has seemingly taken this as a challenge, cooking food as vibrant as the surroundings.

Braised and then hibachi-grilled octopus packs a lovely crunch and pops with chilli and crisped garlic, while raw long-tail tuna spiked with lime leaf and salsa verde is an artful revelation when served beneath a blanket of baby cucumber.

Chargrilled swordfish is the pick of the main courses, the fish clean and tender, a smoked-dashi beurre blanc adding elegance and savoury richness. Coconut-yoghurt sorbet with Granny Smith apple to finish is a touch sweet, but hardly worth dwelling on in such a lovely space with warm hospitality and an all-Australian wine list.

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