Sink your teeth into Loulou’s rabbit, pork and prune terrine, rich, satisfying but never cloying, and be transported to France. In fact, the whole show is so Frenchy, from the traiteur offering baguettes, croissants and charcuterie next food, to the signature John Dory, stuffed with scallop mousse and presented with sauce champagne.

The fish’s trimmings are cleverly transformed into a large quenelle bathed in the creamy lobster goodness of a classic sauce Nantua. Steak frites arrives with a delicate sauce au poivre smartly shot through with Sarawak pepper. Spatchcock kissed by the char-grill is juicy in a classic piperade of peppers and cherry tomatoes with a kick of Espelette pepper – follow the advice from the floorstaff and add the tender-crisp smoky grilled sugarloaf cabbage as a side.

Wine takes pleasure in France’s appellations, and warm madeleines with fig-leaf Chantilly take pleasure in the simple things. Six perfect bites.

Good to know: Live south of the bridge? Loulou now has an outpost in the CBD.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.