Step through Bar Heather’s curtained entranceway and it’s into Byron buzz, tempered by banquettes, pendant lights and miles of wood and reeded glass in a space that shakes up tried-and-true layouts for something more fun.

The bar arches into the centre of the room; a couple can perch at a curve in the kitchen counter for an 11-course set menu for two. For the rest, there’s the hour-long snacks and drinks booking, or a booking proper. The latter lets you choose from Ollie Wong-Hee’s singular menu, which plays the hits, just not as you know them.

A curl of shallot-pancake-channelling fried bread served with spring-onion butter; cuttlefish thrumming with white pepper; fat tranches of rib-eye with house-made oyster sauce and Boon Luck Kampot pepper. Meanwhile, fleet-footed staff pour drinks from one of Byron’s best lists. A pleasure, Bar Heather.

Good to know: Owners James Audas and Tom Sheer are also behind Luna Wine Store nearby, so if you drink something you like, go grab a bottle.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.