Ah, 10 William. So satisfying. So very Sydney. This squished Paddington terrace is still firing on its foundational promise: well-priced, intriguing wines, small plates of reliable sharpness and a convivial atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re elbow-to-elbow with a big, happy family.

Your first move will always be a sweep of the wine blackboard; followed by a request for guidance from the enthusiastic team who always have a suggestion. You’ll almost certainly want a crudo and a croquette – maybe scallop with lemonade fruit, and mozzarella-stuffed suppli – and that famous pretzel with whipped bottarga, still one of the best bread dishes in town.

Pasta could come in the form of tagliatelle bouncing with fat mushrooms, while dessert could be a crisp tarte tatin, if you somehow manage to skip the tiramisu. It’s true that nothing much changes ’round here. And thank goodness for that.

Good to know: When somewhere is this beloved, it’s always wise to book ahead.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.