There’s no question. The soup here is #thicc and like nothing else around. That’s why you’ll find a queue of devout loyalists every night, keen for its souped-up collagenic intensity achieved by boiling fresh pork bones for 14 hours.

The standard tonkotsu is already enough for most diners to handle, but you can request extra back fat to take it to the next level. Or try the fish tonkotsu boosted with katsuobushi flakes for an extra layer of umami. (Mercifully, a new oat-noodle ramen is a lighter option with lean pork if the original broths prove too much.)

Add-ons including a Flintstones-sized spare rib increase the protein, and we also rate the sweet glaze of the barbecued pork skewers. At least one jammy boiled egg is a must, not to mention pickled cabbage and scallops with garlic sprouts for a palate-cleansing boost.

Good to know: You can pick up a frozen tonkotsu ramen kit to cook at home.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.