What a difference turfing the pokies makes, huh? Not to mention a multimillion dollar renovation in 2023 that turned Balmain’s oldest pub from a run-down drinker’s den into a sizable split-use hotel of aged brass, leather and dark timber.

The Dry Dock doesn’t feel too slick for its own good either, largely thanks to an engaged floor team, dog-friendly attitude and a public bar that’s comfortably full most nights. A seat by the fireplace is one of the most sought after seats on the Peninsula in winter – and all the better with a glass of Barbaresco from the terrific wine list – while summer afternoons are all about schooners under streetside umbrellas and seafood platters in the dining room.

Is a Sydney pub still a Sydney pub if there’s no chicken schnitzel on the menu? We say “yes, absolutely”, especially when the kitchen cares enough to use Berkshire-breed pork for a juicy crumbed cutlet instead, and does a tiger prawn and lettuce sandwich on soft white bread that feels more Aussie than any bit of crumbed chook.

The oysters are on ice, the steaks are banging, and the rhum baba, appropriately boozy. Head for a cold one – or a martini or some very good nebbiolo – down at Mort Bay today.

Must order: It’s hard to go past Balmain bugs (with tarragon mayonnaise) in Balmain, right?

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.