Ballarat dresses up for dinner at Mr Jones, where chef Damien Jones gives a kaleidoscope of Asian flavours the fine-dining treatment without diminishing their punch. The set menu – varying in length and price depending on the day – takes you on a ride through China, Thailand and stretches of South-East Asia, with no pesky pauses to make decisions.

The journey might kick off with a subtle smoked Murray cod broth, but the flavours really start to shine with a petite serve of sticky, glossy-skinned Peking duck. The bird gets swagger from signature chilli crisp and a deeply concentrated duck broth.

Yellow curry strikes a dreamy balance of warm spice and creaminess, punctuated by pops of sweet tomato and the unmistakable decadence of juicy king prawns. The warm, modern room is smart but never stiff, crackling with good conversation and tinkling glassware, as well-meaning staff keep the wheels turning.

Good to know: Do as many locals do and buy a jar of Mr Jones chilli crisp to take home with you.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.