There’s absolutely nothing to be vexed about here, unless perhaps you’re an obligate carnivore. Vex’s not-quite-but-almost-entirely plant-based offering is as artistically inventive as the post-punk classics on the record player, and just as invigorating. Parsley root skewers with horseradish might sound ludicrously spartan, but in fact they’re a revelation: flame-kissed and spikily addictive.

Delicate slivers of glazed celeriac are sandwiched with a paste of capers and served over buttery puy lentils and caramelised radicchio. Your switched-on waiter will shepherd you through the deeply cool wine list packed with interesting varieties.

A velvety and aromatic roussanne feels destined for a memorable plate of quick-pickled pumpkin backed by chestnut emulsion and crisp kohlrabi ribbons. Don’t skip the stockbrot, a German campfire bread cooked on a stick over coals, paired with intensely smoky sunflower seed butter. It’s so good, you may order seconds.

Best for: Appreciating plant-based eating through a chic new lens.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.