Lygon Street, 2019: a time-honoured spaghetti stronghold. But then this raunchy, low-lit salon stormed in, trading broadly in the flavours of Asia and sparking a culinary revolution. Call it fine-ish dining with Chinese characteristics, call it a shrewder fusion, just make sure you’re calling for cumin-heavy Xinjiang lamb ribs: bones cooked brittle, fats running wild through supple flesh.

Rolled rice noodles with spanner crab, a standout, are so deeply crustaceous you’ll need a Patrick Underwood riesling blend (dispensed via a planet-friendly tap) to prise you from the ocean floor.

Allow the house-proud staff to then bring you a crisp leg of chicken blanketed in sticky anchovy sambal, before you gleefully accept a pliant wodge of steamed Malay cake: a puffy brown-sugar sponge served with silken malt cream. The current golden age of Lygon Street began with Lagoon Dining, and it remains its fearless leader.

Best for: Informed, intentional fusion food cooked with aplomb.

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