At this Italo institution, there’s no safer bet than pasta. But it’s best appreciated after a few detours, the first being ox tongue: delicately sliced, glistening with balsamic reduction and artfully arranged like an accordion.

Charred octopus with green tomato and shiso leaf is a more worldly adventure, but spanner crab risotto made with carnaroli, the king of Italian rice, is a righteous homecoming. And the pasta? Pillowy half-moons of pumpkin ravioli sit among splodges of taleggio offset by crisp sage.

The signature Tiipomisu is a classic, but have you tried its wintery sister tartufomisu? Layers of chocolate and coffee are crowned with fresh black truffle shavings and truffle cream. This hot-spot is perennially packed, so book well in advance and don’t be surprised if service runs at a brisk pace; you’re not the only one in thrall to Tipo’s charms.

Good to know: Every meal starts with a finger of warm focaccia on the house, served with whipped ricotta.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.