Call it an unfair advantage: Hazel occupies the upper two floors of a grand, historic building in the heart of Flinders Lane. Even before you’ve taken a seat – at the bar amid twinkling tealights or at one of the well-spaced tables – the lovely, high-ceilinged dining room is a pleasure to be in and warm staff maintain the mood.

Kick off with some of the flying saucer-shaped sourdough flatbread, all puffy and charry from the wood oven and telling of the restaurant’s subtle shift in identity from neo-bistro to “Australian grill”. Snapper tartare is a kaleidoscopic balance of raw fish, finely diced saffron jelly and potato mayonnaise. Dry-aged scotch fillet – seen at every second table – ticks the steakhouse box; a hearty side of chunky, crisp-edged potatoes is non-negotiable.

Meat’s not your thing? This being a Mulberry Group restaurant, there’s a section of the menu dedicated to innovative dishes based on vegetables from “Our Farm”.

Must-order: Raw snapper, potato mayonnaise, saffron jelly.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.