Suits, first dates, old mates: they’re as much a part of the furniture at this stylish stayer as the Bentwood chairs. The long dining room and its wood panels could spill a political scandal or 100, and the familiar comforts are many. The leader has to be the trusty parmesan-and-panko-coated chicken schnitzel with zingy Italian coleslaw. But there are other thrills to be had.

First stop, Sicily: a crudo of generous slivers of scallop, kingfish and marlin tumbled simply with lemon and olive oil. Hop over to northern Spain for whole flathead filleted tableside with finesse, and drenched in butter that hums with paprika and peppery warmth.

Finish in France with textbook tarte tatin, the apples caramelised until deep mahogany. Twenty-seven years on, The European is still imitated, seldom beaten and as reassuringly Melbourne as the 96 tram clattering past.

Best for: Showing friends from out of town why Melbourne’s so favourably compared to Europe.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.