There’s a certain kind of food lover who won’t touch an Italian restaurant with the word “puree” on the menu. For them, the jus, the confit and all that French jazz run counter to the rustic joy of vera cucina. But might we humbly suggest a meal at Cecconi’s? The look of the zhooshy basement rooms is contemporary, but the welcome and service are old-school in the best of ways.

Yes, your ricotta agnolotti might come dolloped with porcini foam and nettle puree, but the flavours are true. Linguine plays a much straighter bat with a nicely cooked lode of prawn, scallop and clams.

The space does a brisk lunchtime trade in big steaks and bigger reds. For a more Italian-leaning grill, opt for the pork cutlet with a sweet-sour assembly of fig and radicchio presented, like everything here, with pride and style.

Best for: Business lunching in spacious surrounds where noise levels are as comfortable as the buff leather chairs.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.