Until you step back out into the world from this Italian hideaway, it’s easy to forget that it’s in a laneway behind a shopping centre.

Santino is a world unto its own, where the walls of the cavernous space are lined with preserves and old photos of Sinatra among Italian greats. Euro disco grooves along in the background while groups fight over a gigantic, velvety polpetta di manzo sitting happily in rich, sweet sugo.

Clean the plate with sourdough from local legends at Millers’ Local Bakehouse, and keep some to help you savour every spoonful of fresh, bright caponata sitting underneath market fish (today it’s snapper) with perfectly crisp skin.

The menu, like the wine list, meanders through various regions of Italy, with the occasional Australian touch, like locally-foraged sea blite atop al-dente chitarra dancing with slipper lobster and a rich crustacean oil.

Good to know: Sister venue Bar Lina next door does a fine line in Portuguese and Basque food and drink.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.