Pilot does things differently. It’s there in how they’ve framed a scrawl of graffiti on the bathroom mirror and called it art. In how they donate corkage from BYO Thursdays to a worthy organisation.

In the ceramic goblets and glassware co-owner Dash Rumble and “Chief of Staff” (and somm) Caitlin Baker collect from op-shops for a drinks pairing that throws turmeric tisanes in the mix with Domenica gamay. For food, it’s no guarantee every course will be unfailingly delicious, but they sure will be interesting.

How about “fish and chips”, with the crisps made from mackerel then served with potato dip? Or palak paneer reimagined with stracciatella and zucchini alongside milk buns. Or tagliatelle enriched with bone marrow and tossed through curls of squid. We’re into season seven of this Pilot, and it feels like we’re just getting started.

Good to know: Pilot runs That Other Place outside when the weather warms up: expect snacks, cocktails and fine times in the courtyard

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.