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Good Food hat15.5/20

Victor Churchill

Updated ,first published

Cote de boeuf for two served at Victor Churchill in Melbourne.
1 / 7Cote de boeuf for two served at Victor Churchill in Melbourne.Chloe Dann
Inside the lavish restaurant.
2 / 7Inside the lavish restaurant.Chloe Dann
Steak tartare with crispy gaufrette chips.
3 / 7Steak tartare with crispy gaufrette chips.Chloe Dann
Charcuterie plate.
4 / 7Charcuterie plate.Paul Jeffers
Victor Churchill elevates steak and fries.
5 / 7Victor Churchill elevates steak and fries.Supplied.
Prawn cocktail.
6 / 7Prawn cocktail.Chloe Dann
Chicken liver parfait with foie gras and black truffle.
7 / 7Chicken liver parfait with foie gras and black truffle.Chloe Dann
Good Food hat15.5/20

Victor Churchill

Steakhouse$$$

Beef cooked with reverence in luxe surrounds.

Anthony Bourdain described Sydney’s Victor Churchill as “the most beautiful butcher’s shop in the world”. The Melbourne offshoot, in a former bank resplendent with marble, timber and copper, is equally gorgeous. Even better, it includes a glamorous restaurant: a temple to premium beef.

There’s a trophy two-kilo tomahawk, or neat 160g Scotch cap that’s rich, tender and charry crusted, dolloped with textbook bearnaise. “It’s like butter,” a diner swoons of his wagyu, while savvy white-jacketed staff confirm decadent Paris mash is indeed half butter.

Tables dot the shopfloor where glass cabinets house spectacular cuts, while a curved 13-seat bar looks towards the charcoal Josper grills behind. There’s fish, calamari with romesco, prawns drizzled with dashi butter, even classic desserts like profiteroles. But why skip splurge-worthy steaks when this butcher has supplied Australia’s top restaurants for years?

Good to know: Bookings open 10am on the first of the month for the following month.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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