One thing you won’t know before entering this atmospheric little restaurant: what you’ll be eating. Some things you should know: the next six or so courses will leave you wondering how this watertight team of two – chef Derek Boath and laconic sommelier Tony Schuurs – pull off such fireworks.

If you’re one of the lucky ones seated at the counter, you’ll see Boath prepping, swooping, plating – even washing up – in his tiny kitchen with great precision. An electronica soundtrack swells and softens in all the right places, much like the well-paced menu. There’s a subtly luxurious steamed custard with scallop and trout roe.

Sticky beef rump wallops you with biquinho chilli and smoky black garlic. Homely touches include a fortifying Bannockburn chicken consomme to welcome, and tea steeped with Meyer lemon from chef’s garden that’ll send you away full, happy and a little awestruck.

Good to know: If you’re not seated at the bar you’ll be at a long communal table that seats about 15 – group interaction optional.

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