Tulum
Turkish$$
A keen mix of ideas new and ancient.
Chef Coskun Uysal’s love letter to Turkiye is written with equal respect given to tradition and innovation. Candlelight flickers over the dining room’s rough brick walls and glossy turquoise tiling while, in the kitchen, classic Turkish dishes are spun into a menu of contemporary intrigue.
A suite of mezze might feature lentil kofte alive with mint and pomegranate, or whipped Ezine cheese and verdant chive oil. The su boregi, or water borek, demonstrates the excellence possible at the softer end of the borek spectrum, taking a luxe black truffle cream on top.
Star-shaped beef manti, Turkiye’s cute-as-a-button micro dumplings, twinkle in buttermilk and mint, while a braised beef cheek is doused in earthy beetroot sauce, dual purees of spiced apricot and lemony eggplant bringing acidic lift. Add in a Turkish wine pairing and take the trip.
Good to know: There is excellent value to be found in the sofra: a set-menu feast.
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign upContinue this series
Where to dine in St Kilda, Balaclava, Windsor, Prahran and surrounds