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Good Food hat15/20

Tulum

Updated ,first published

Where new and old ideas meet.
1 / 12Where new and old ideas meet.Supplied
Outside Tulum.
2 / 12Outside Tulum.Supplied
Turkish spiced molasses-roasted chicken.
3 / 12Turkish spiced molasses-roasted chicken.Chloe Dann
Inside the Carlisle Street restaurant.
4 / 12Inside the Carlisle Street restaurant.Supplied
Raki cocktail.
5 / 12Raki cocktail.Supplied
Red lentil, bulgur and capsicum meatballs.
6 / 12Red lentil, bulgur and capsicum meatballs. Supplied
Pirasa (organic leeks).
7 / 12Pirasa (organic leeks).Wayne Taylor
Mantu (delicate beef dumplings).
8 / 12Mantu (delicate beef dumplings).Supplied
Cilbir (egg with smoked yoghurt).
9 / 12Cilbir (egg with smoked yoghurt).Wayne Taylor
Sutlac (rice pudding).
10 / 12Sutlac (rice pudding).Wayne Taylor
Ordek (duck breast).
11 / 12Ordek (duck breast).Wayne Taylor
Beef short ribs.
12 / 12Beef short ribs.Simon Schluter
Good Food hat15/20

Tulum

Turkish$$

A keen mix of ideas new and ancient.

Chef Coskun Uysal’s love letter to Turkiye is written with equal respect given to tradition and innovation. Candlelight flickers over the dining room’s rough brick walls and glossy turquoise tiling while, in the kitchen, classic Turkish dishes are spun into a menu of contemporary intrigue.

A suite of mezze might feature lentil kofte alive with mint and pomegranate, or whipped Ezine cheese and verdant chive oil. The su boregi, or water borek, demonstrates the excellence possible at the softer end of the borek spectrum, taking a luxe black truffle cream on top.

Star-shaped beef manti, Turkiye’s cute-as-a-button micro dumplings, twinkle in buttermilk and mint, while a braised beef cheek is doused in earthy beetroot sauce, dual purees of spiced apricot and lemony eggplant bringing acidic lift. Add in a Turkish wine pairing and take the trip.

Good to know: There is excellent value to be found in the sofra: a set-menu feast.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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