Sure, most dishes feature traditional Indian spices and techniques, or a blast from the tandoor. But these days, a curry at Tonka is a fount of possibility. It might be confit duck leg sauced a la Mangalore and accented with preserved dates and walnuts. Or slow-roasted lamb shoulder slicked with the southern flavours of Kerala and served over lemon rice.

Fancy a snack? Bhutte ka kees, a double-bite of creamy slow-cooked corn, takes a Mexican turn with a crunchy tostada base. Personable, well-informed staff might suggest a side of charry Brussels sprouts on a tangy labne bed, instead of rice or naan. Trust them.

Desserts, too, cross continents: spice-poached quince is strewn with streusel and jaggery, a traditional Indian sweetener. The pared back, elegant interior – all blond wood, chocolate leather and a cloud-like ceiling of steel mesh – completes a polished package.

Must-order dish: Pani puri is a one-mouthful wonder of crunch and spicy softness.

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