Waving palms and fragrant coconut … amidst the bluestone and brick of Fitzroy? Welcome to the surprise that is Toddy Shop, a pocket-sized homage to the southern Indian state of Kerala, honouring everything from its drinks to its produce.

Casual, affordable and built for speedy visits, the dusky-pink venue from chef Mischa Tropp mixes some of the most interesting cocktails in town, built from ginger, lime and green chilli. Of course there’s toddy, the fermented drink made from coconut palm sap. Its gentle fizz and nutty flavour is the counterpoint your tongue may be seeking between peppery and lemon-tinged chicken fry, and brick-red nadan curry coating hunks of barramundi with its creeping dried chilli heat.

Turmeric-stained and butter-soft cabbage thoran delivers more cooling coconut. Hot and tissuey paratha cooked in ghee is a delight to tear apart, and informed staff are just as pleasing.

Good to know: The outdoor deck on a sunny day is your best bet for the closest approximation of tropical Kerala.

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