Dining at Suze feels like watching the zeitgeist evolve in real time. The room is all angles and old windows and slate grey walls punctuated by bright, modern art. Downstairs, a bar is surrounded by tables tucked into the wall, while a staircase leads to a first-floor open kitchen facing the intimate dining room. The vibe is perfect for this moment, the cooking bold and creative.

There may be house-made ricotta covered with lush persimmon and doused in pepperberries. Silky slabs of meaty tuna swim in Tasmanian wasabi with puckery desert lime. Spanner crab linguine is a high-acid, high-intensity flavour bomb. Whatever you do, be sure to have the Bay of Fire cheddar gougeres.

The wine list is approachable and full of bargains - a Spanish palomino of rich minerality, maybe. An immensely fun place to spend an evening or a leisurely Sunday arvo.

Must-order: Aylesbury dry-aged duck with black currants.

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