There’s an undeniable thrill to discovering this sprawling restaurant, hidden deep in an industrial car park and yet packed with enthusiastic diners. A backing track of Punjabi hip-hop feels just right for the menu of North Indian gems.

Swipe flaky, many-layered paratha into curries such as sarson ka saag: cooked down mustard and fenugreek leaves, boosted by cumin and ginger. Or load up on street snacks such as aloo papdi chaat: a joy-giving platter of crackers and diced potatoes drenched in a technicolour swathe of green and red chutneys, sweet yoghurt and pomegranate.

Rasmalai – cottage cheese dumplings in a milky cardamom-spiked syrup – sit in a display cabinet full of sweets at dangerously affordable prices. Set meals such as thali platters are fast food for solo diners, and the space is casual enough for you to come as you are.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.