Surrounded by farmland and parks, Keilor can feel like a country town. So this restaurant’s moniker – Italian for “little village” – is spot on.

The kitchen team treat their 48-hour, double-fermented dough with religious intensity. See it stretching across the menu from aperitivo angioletti (fried dough served with fresh cherry tomatoes) to dessert zeppole (rough, sugar-dusted doughnuts and Nutella).

The lengthy pizza list includes Danny Devito, which layers four different pork products on a red base: ham, pancetta, salami and fennel-fragrant sausage. The carbonara-inspired Connie Carbone comes with ruffled, rendered pancetta and a suitably rich yolky sauce. Forget stuffed crusts – these are puffed crusts with satisfying chew, dotted with the leopard spots that mark a pro pizzaiolo.

The setting is comforting and homely, with decor consisting of Italian football memorabilia, gingham tablecloths and amaro bottles stuffed with fresh flowers.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.