If you dropped someone who knew nothing about Melbourne or its dining scene into MoVida, they’d probably figure it to be a shiny newcomer, not a 22-year-old stalwart. The room, all brick and wood and big industrial windows, is still packed night after night. Staff brim with enthusiasm, whether they’re walking you through the menu or geeking out over a Canary Islands wine on the restaurant’s fantastic list.

The flavours are still big, bold and, yes, modern. Tender sand crab is stacked on a buttered house-made crumpet. A skewer of secondary chicken cuts – tender and bouncy oysters and hearts – comes topped with racy pickled-garlic salsa verde. While other restaurants are charging upwards of $140 for Spanish-style seafood and rice, here bomba rice loaded with Portarlington mussels and clams is around $70, a generosity that runs through the entire menu.

Best for: A gossipy girls night out.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.