A rush of warm air greets you at the door, carrying the hiss of stone bowls, the scent of braised beef and the glimpse of owner-chef Jun Kwon hustling in the kitchen. Ordering is easy – the yellow stickers on the menu indicate what’s for one and what’s to share.

Tender beef short-ribs emerge from bubbling consomme, as does oxtail in salted beef soup. Samgyetang – a half-chicken in ginseng soup with sticky rice – is a tonic as much as a meal. Pan-fried jeon fritters of whitebait are held together by an egg coating, while bossam – braised pork belly with crisp edges – is accompanied by sliced garlic, green chilli, salted shrimp paste and a modest heap of kimchi.

Service is grab-your-own-share-bowl casual; families, students and neighbours picking up coffee on the way to catch a train colour the whole experience cosy.

Must-orders: Grilled spicy baby octopus; samgyetang, a chicken and ginseng soup with glutinous-rice stuffed chicken.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.