Radiant embers in the ovens by the entrance; pools of golden light on handmade blackwood tables; a softly lit stairway to the downstairs bar. Scott Pickett’s moody restaurant has her glow on. The flaming-good times begin with signature smoky lamb ribs swiped through house-made harissa.

Cool zucchini comes a la zoodle with seaweed oil, sorrel and creamy sunflower miso, and tender octopus tentacles rest on petals of coal-fired onion. Steaks are as small or hulking as you wish, grilled over wood and sent out with technically excellent sauces and, ideally, something good and local to swirl.

Classic French reds may better suit sultry duck breast cooked to a perfect pink, flanked by a robust duck-and-chicken meatball wrapped in rainbow chard. Service is deft and low-key right through to dessert – luscious Basque cheesecake made crunchy with a torched brulee crust.

Good to know: Classic breakfasts get the opulent Pickett treatment at weekends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.