Nearly two decades in, the gilded tiger of Middle Eastern fine dining sure has staying power. So too its signature lamb. A hefty slow-roasted shoulder seasoned with abandon and ennobled at present with dried figs, it’s the bedrock of Shane Delia’s flourishing restaurant group – and it’s been defining date-nights and feeding rowdy crowds in some form for years.

Tasting menus tour the Middle East, from cloud-like hummus that deserves more fanfare to rich beef manti, the little dumplings mixed through harissa oil and golden fried onions. Ras el hanout abounds. The snacks – led by oozy black garlic croquettes, and duck rolled in pastry and served like a cigar – are standouts.

The road to milk chocolate mousse is as long as the dessert is tricky: a semi-freddo situation of lavender ice-cream and burnt marshmallow. Order a Porcelain Orchid cocktail made with calvados, fino sherry and chartreuse, and sink into the good times at this underground favourite.

Good to know: The soufra set menu is a serious undertaking – come hungry.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.