You love prawn toast, now prepare to die for it: topped with sea urchin and salted-egg butter, it’s a crisp-edged flagship you’ll never forget. You know the praline-like wonders of Sichuan eggplant, but you’ve never felt it shatter through your mouth like this: sweet, sticky red-spiced vinegar coating every corner.

Order a clarified Hong Kong milk punch and look around. You’re at the chef’s counter on a graffiti-scrawled laneway, the main character in a cyberpunk fine-dining fantasy, in the company of a generational talent. Ordering Peking duck almost feels like a capitulation when faced with the inspired likes of crab-loaded Fujian fried rice, served “wet” like congee, but it’s advisable.

The duck, dry-aged, is cooked to order and awash with rouge maltose glaze. Lee Ho Fook means good fortune for the mouth; let brilliant owner-chef Victor Liong drop a goldmine in yours.

Good to know: Stretch out and take a load off in the comfortable, carpeted dining room upstairs if you’re not one for a bar stool.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.