An elevated sushi bar looms over a sparse, monochrome room. Gentle spotlights pick out the cast of impressively co-ordinated sushi masters as they prepare a tightly-timed procession of sculptural dishes. There’s an extensive a la carte list of Japanese classics on offer, but the omakase at the sushi bar is the best experience.

You’ll be passed perfect individual nigiri as it’s crafted, perhaps plump tuna belly with sesame or glistening snapper with spring onion oil. Wherever you sit, you might be treated to savoury mochi crowned with a deep-sea hit of caviar, or tender sake-steamed abalone served in its shell.

Wagyu is also a big deal, heavily marbled A5 revelling in an elegant shiitake demi-glace. Along with the expected high-end sake options, find surprisingly economical tasting flights – an easy entry point for the budding enthusiast.

Best for: Romantic dinners filled with hushed conversation and no shortage of sake.

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