It’s the law: in 2026, fancy restaurants must display proof of savoury Japanese custard. Welcome to the Age of Chawanmushi. But this example is worth crossing town for, earthy Jerusalem artichokes and a deep-green film of sugar snap peas its calling cards. And because your savoury fantasies are chef Peter Gunn’s command, it might be flanked by a parmesan-dusted, caviar-topped donut.

PSA: Collingwood’s defining fine diner just went a la carte-mode after a decade-plus of degustations. Now’s the time to pop in for fall-apart lamb neck supported by technicolour streaks of fermented kosho sauces on an earthenware plate. An umami army of pork fat and shiitake dumplings are topped with shiitake slices in shiitake broth.

Dessert presents a tough choice: inspired pumpkin ice-cream resting on hexagons of mandarin parfait, or whatever’s in that ominous-looking chocolate box, a closely guarded secret served with a hammer.

Best for: A low-lit rendezvous.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.