At last, Melbourne is getting a front-row seat to the ambitions Sydney chef Junda Khoo has for the Malaysian food of his heritage. To see that writ large, you’ll want to zoom to level one of his dining universe that opened in the heart of the CBD this year.

The name of this more upscale restaurant – Junda’s Playground – says it all. Khoo pairs warm, comforting curry puffs with a slurry of Stilton cheese for dipping. Rendang with stretchy roti is accompanied by two fat bones full of quivering marrow.

A silken slice of raw kingfish draped across a shiso leaf mimics assam laksa thanks to a topping of pineapple salsa and tamarind-heavy granita. The service and setting can at times feel stiff rather than smooth and drinks need some fine-tuning, but this boundary-pushing spot is undeniably one to watch.

Must-order: Laksa bombs – chicken and prawn dumplings in a rich laksa broth with fistfuls of bean sprouts.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.