Bellini, bella? Pretty in pink in a fluted glass, it comes on a silver tray and tastes of peaches and prosecco with a dash of elderflower and extravagance. When this dramatic, deep-blue dining room isn’t channelling a Manhattan steakhouse – epic steaks, mac-n-cheese, retro coat-check tokens – it nods to the most fabled bar in Venice with white waiters’ jackets, studded leather seats and the heady sense that money is no object.

Even the beef carpaccio is a Harry’s tribute, the meat cross-hatched with tangy tuna mayonnaise. Calamari curls nestle alongside housemade tartare, and clear tomato consommé is poured at the table over lobster folded into delicate tortellini.

Plump veal cutlet is simply crumbed and served in rosy slices; as with the top-shelf wood-grilled steaks, you’ll want sides. Flattering lighting, a deep wine list and showy desserts round out a high-rolling package suffused with brio.

Good to know: Get your glad rags ready – booking confirmations come with a dress code

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