The queue of homesick Indonesians is constant. They’re all making tough decisions about their nasi bungkus – up to four saucy meat and veg dishes scooped from bain-maries into rice, then wrapped in a banana leaf. This choose-your-own-adventure for the tastebuds might begin with Medan-style eggplant, anchovy and chilli: a right hook of spice and texture.

Buddy it up with melting beef rendang and fall-apart lemongrass chicken. Favourites like mie goreng and peanut-rich gado gado are made to order, as is sticky grilled chicken with red chilli sambal that will have you seeing stars.

The new location on St Kilda Road has more room for eat-in, but this canteen is still more Jetstar than Qantas with its laminate tables, well-worn menus and shaved ice machine soundtrack. The extraordinary food, however, is as close as you’ll come to the Equatorial Emerald without a boarding pass.

Must-order: Gado gado might be as close to a comfort food as a salad can get.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.