Three years ago, Freyja opened with a strong Norse identity and more than a few tricks on show from a chef with experience at Michelin restaurants overseas. Over time, Nordic notions have eased and the food feels relaxed and generous. There’s been several menu formats trialled, but for now dinner is a la carte.

Kohlrabi is pickled and served with goat’s curd, fermented blackcurrant and kelp powder for a knockout vegetarian dish. Beef tartare uses green fruit - perhaps plum or strawberries - for tart acid, instead of the usual cornichons. Skate is in a light broth with unripe blueberries that have been salted as though they were capers, yet another example of marginal produce elevated.

A moody room of dark green, leather and exposed brick suits the business end of town Freyja’s located in, as does the service, which is as polished and poised as the cooking.

Must-order: Taste of Ramarro salad, a micro-seasonal showcase of a local grower’s wares.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.