Lakes Entrance, Fish Creek, Warragul, Maffra: familiar names accompany every dish that lands on these solid timber tables. The first-floor dining room is trimmed with lush carpet and curvy banquettes. And whether you’re here for the degustation dinner or a lunch of two or three courses, there will be soda bread slathered in cultured butter made with buffalo milk.

Lakes Entrance kingfish is formed into a ring surrounding emerald-hued buttermilk and parsley sauce. Venison raised in South Gippsland might be a little uneven but enjoys bold company in a marrow bone, pickled kumquat and rosemary jus rounding out the plate.

Staff are chirpy, if unable to fully sell the dream of provenance that underpins this noble endeavour. Thankfully, a drinks list showcasing the region’s breadth and brilliance is on hand, a snapshot of what’s drinking well in the fertile reaches of eastern Victoria.

Good to know: Downstairs is the place for small plates and casual visits; upstairs holds a rooftop bar.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.