“I grew up with curry and pasta together on the table. It all works,” says chef-owner Adam D’Sylva. Decca’s guests are proving him right every day, lapping up his Indian-meets-Italian menu. Paccheri are short, fat pasta tubes, perfect for hugging pork ragu made with sausage mince from local butcher Brenta Meats and cooked with mushrooms, thyme and cavolo nero.

Duck maryland pulls apart with ease, the accompanying coconut-rich yellow curry sauce heady but not hot. Betel leaf piled with Thai-spiced prawn meat is battered in tapioca flour and fried into a translucent flavour bomb. Thinly sliced, expertly fried calamari may follow, a dish that’s easy to come by but rarely this special.

The eight-page wine list offers such value you’ll wonder if some prices are errors - order a bottle of Domaine Gautheron 2023 chablis and toast to D’Sylva’s suburban success.

Must-order: Paccheri ragu.

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