A semi-permanent pop-up, Clara Luna is run by a chef (Frankie Hadid) raised in Venezuela by Syrian parents, serving food inspired by both places that reaches across cultures. Naturally, this isn’t your typical winery restaurant. It’s casual, fun, international, but then the Australian wine in a deeply Australian setting means it feels like home too.

Where else can you pair classic lamb shish with fizzy, soft, immensely drinkable pet nat in an industrial space that takes in a patio, a lounge-like dining area, and a hangar-like space filled with barrels and hung with twinkling string lights? This is bar food but also soul food. Fried fish wings are topped with tarator, the nutty tahini-based sauce.

Tahini is also subtly woven through a simple scoop of tiramisu. And when it’s on song, the “pipis and chippies” is a worthy signature dish, briny and juicy and excellent. Honestly, what more could you possibly want?

Good to know: Keep an eye out for Thursday steak nights plus a host of one-off events throughout the year.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.