When you open the door to Caterina’s you want to hear glasses clinking, cutlery rat-a-tatting, laughter rippling through the room like a Mexican wave. For seven months, following a flood, all was quiet at the power-lunch hub. Now it’s back. Owner Caterina Borsato rattles off daily specials at antique marble-topped tables.

Today it might be goldband snapper crudo with a trifecta of citrus and persimmon sauce. The menu displays an Italian awe for the seasons, but there’s always rabbit, perhaps on the bone in a light white-wine braise boosted by green olives. When a local farmer has hazelnuts, they might star in gianduja, the nutty chocolate paste piped into a delicate chocolate tartshell.

A meticulous list of 600 wines spans approachable to aspirational, with plenty by the glass and half-bottle. Hear that? It’s the sound of a restaurant that’s on song.

Best for: A weekday lunch where no one’s counting how many glasses they’ve had.

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