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13.5/20Critics' Pick

Benchwarmer

Chicken katsu with Japanese gravy.
1 / 8Chicken katsu with Japanese gravy.Simon Schluter
Benchwarmer is housed in an old Victorian terrace on Victoria Street.
2 / 8Benchwarmer is housed in an old Victorian terrace on Victoria Street.Simon Schluter
Salmon tostadas atop crisp wonton wrappers.
3 / 8Salmon tostadas atop crisp wonton wrappers.Simon Schluter
Shio koji pork cheek.
4 / 8Shio koji pork cheek.Simon Schluter
A fish sando special.
5 / 8A fish sando special.Simon Schluter
Benchwarmer chef Geoff Marett (left) and owner Lachlan Jones.
6 / 8Benchwarmer chef Geoff Marett (left) and owner Lachlan Jones.Supplied
Select your beer from the five-door fridge or one of 18 taps.
7 / 8Select your beer from the five-door fridge or one of 18 taps.Supplied
Fried crumpet topped with XO lamb, yuzu labne and hot honey.
8 / 8Fried crumpet topped with XO lamb, yuzu labne and hot honey.Supplied
13.5/20Critics' Pick

Benchwarmer

Japanese$

Easygoing bar-meets-bottleshop.

This craft-beer hangout is a refreshing change from Melbourne’s craft breweries which, while endlessly creative with their beer, can feel repetitive when it comes to their menus. Chef Geoff Marett’s food, though, is brash and bold, inspired by loud and loose izakayas. Marett dials up the sweetness and matches with salty elements, and cleverly deploys several different pickled, spicy or umami ingredients in a single dish.

A katsu of thigh resting on a sweet and gently spicy pool of Japanese curry gravy could be the juiciest crumbed chicken of your life. Charred pork jowl is equally tender and you’ve never had a crumpet like this: deep-fried with a toffee-like shell, piled with a swish of labneh and rich, saucy lamb shoulder.

It’s perfect drinking food; a good thing, too, as there are 18 taps plus a five-door fridge with cans and bottles, wines from up-and-coming producers, plus sakes and highballs from whisky to tequila to try.

Good to know: We recommend ordering as you go (via QR code or by walking up to the bar).

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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