Bellota is a venue of the escapist variety. Past cheery red geraniums framing a clutch of outdoor tables, a chunky wooden red door signals ebullient times within.

Solo diners can pull up a stool, get expert recommendations for the wondrous wine list and cherry-pick charcuterie sliced to order. Staying a while? Nab a table in the back half of the slim, wending dining room and spend some quality time with pecorino-crusted cauliflower and raisin jam, or anchovies in sweet-sour syrup designed to smear on a grilled baguette.

Cuttlefish is tender, served with fregola and ’nduja and rendered to a powerful, oily essence, while seared goldband snapper makes quick pals with a tangle of crunchy kohlrabi and raw fennel. Augmented by divine service and the hypnotic draw of the adjoining wine store, Bellota is a delicious daydream.

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