There’s serious firepower behind this inviting little eatery. From an open kitchen, chef Mia Coady-Plumb (ex-Aria, Anchovy, Town Mouse) turns out French fare that’s classic in technique but far from tired. Peppery gougeres ooze Comté and sherry, duck parfait jives with boozy figs and gingerbread, crisp-skinned dory reclines in vadouvan butter.

Then there’s the clafoutis – plush, nutty and entirely worth the 15-minute wait this dessert requires. Co-owner and winemaker Lawrence Scanlon offers a wine list that roams from French treasures to local gems, chosen with a keen eye for drinkability and value.

Service is unpretentious yet deeply tuned-in, the lighting flattering, the playlist more Nick Cave than Edith Piaf. It’s so convivial you could almost miss how polished Magnolia is. In a city studded with bistros, this one stands out as a mature showcase of skilful hospitality and good times.

Best for: High-end dining without the high-end attitude.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.