At Aromi, ebullient greetings and the rhythm of a cocktail shaker beckon, while its glamorous digs are prinked with blue velvet drapes and a sunset glow of backlit Aperol bottles. Neat little starter snacks set the tone: pillowy, mozzarella-filled gnocco frito swaddled in capocollo, for example.

A share-friendly tumble of fried calamari, school prawns, whitebait and zucchini follow. A tight offering of meaty mains is there, but house-made pasta steals the show. Ruby-hued beetroot fettuccine is rich yet bright, the ribbons flecked with nubs of pork and fennel sausage and neat cubes of beetroot.

Luxurious bucatini bathes in a deep, mellow tomato veloute studded with pearly pieces of crayfish. Tiramisu, a refreshingly light take on the traditional, is presented with a flourish of cascading zabaglione that completes the Italian fantasy.

Good to know: There’s a bottomless brunch (a main and unlimited spritzes) every Sunday.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.