Haymarket’s Chinatown has expanded in recent years with Darling Quarter’s mix of on-trend franchises and the latest queue-inducing concepts.

It’s kind of nice to step back from all the gelato and bubble tea, and head above the crowds to the Golden Century group’s round house, a place where steamed dumplings and live seafood still rule. (You can also get GC’s barbecued duck and pork in the food court downstairs.)

Yes, the signature XO pipis are a hit – hence the venue name – but so is the extensive yum cha menu along with great salt-and-pepper squid, fat pork belly hunks with hoisin, the greenest of tossed, seasonal greens and a “Modern Twist” dish of garlicky, chilli-hot black-bean cauliflower.

A live parrot fish will still visit your table before returning steamed under a blanket of ginger and shallot, too. There’s also tea, beer and a swanky wine list, and fortune cookies with your bill.

Best for: Old-school Cantonese classics delivered with fuss-free service

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