There’s a cosiness about The Herring Room, a vibe that’s somewhere between a stylish grandparent’s dining room and a superior local bistro. But there’s also adventure to the menu, which approaches seafood from all types of different cuisines and angles.

A whole deep-fried baby snapper makes for a grand centrepiece, and has plenty of flaky, slightly sweet flesh to daub in a slick of ginger-laden soy glaze. Dishes like a scallop sashimi artistically drizzled with avruga caviar and a green apple and sudachi dressing show a flair for intricate plating, while slow-cooked octopus with a punchy gochujang and ’nduja vinaigrette demonstrates how to elevate seafood cooking with bold flavours.

Dessert, like a decadent, buttery banana rum baba, can dazzle too. The service is warm and attentive, rightly proud of a restaurant too good to stay a Northern Beaches secret.

Good to know: You can BYO wine for $10 a head.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.