Curb-side seating comes with lively Kings Cross life and dentist-strength lighting at TBC, but that doesn’t diminish the appeal of this bolthole. Ecca Zhang, who runs the floor, is one reason to return – his exuberance, warmth and knowledge cuts through the urban noise and he’s primed with expert steers. The food is the other reason.

Ecca’s parents, Beijing expats Gao Lun and Jie Zhang, hand pull noodles and serve them dan dan-style with minced pork and a heady, brothy sauce, then expertly boil or pan-fry delicate dumplings destined to be splashed with sharp house-made vinegar and fragrant Sichuan pepper-spiked chilli oil.

Ecca says he shouldn’t have a favourite dumpling, but says the pork and fennel is up there, with fennel fronds bringing a thrilling aniseed kick. Pair it all with pickled savoy cabbage and, if you’re rolling with a crew, get a whole Peking duck, cut thick and served with all the trimmings.

Good to know: It’s $15 corkage for BYO, and the duck is cooked to order, so expect a 45-minute wait unless you call ahead.

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