Plenty of things about this pretty boatshed are low-intervention, from the way it blends gently into its pristine jetty location on Lake Merimbula, to the granny-chic vintage decor, to the large selection of small-producer wines.

The food is equally laidback – the kind of simple, delicious, nostalgic stuff that you want to eat at any hour of the day. Fat toasties, for example, overflowing with spinach and gooey cheeses, or a braise of lamb shoulder, splodged across polenta and sauced with yogurt and runny poached egg.

Stop by in the morning for a generous bacon and egg roll, or avocado on toast with miso chilli butter. Come for lunch and it’s all about a glass of pet-nat and a plate of hot chips as the sun sets over oyster leases. Low-key, high reward.

Good to know: The kiosk doubles as a motorboat, kayak and paddleboard hire shop.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.