More than 30 years in the restaurant business is no joke, but what’s more impressive than the longevity of Hurstville’s original cha chaan teng, is how it’s continued to evolve to meet the market. Put it down to David Chan, whose father, Tak Ming, and “uncle” Chi Sun-cheng founded Sun Ming Restaurant on Forest Road in 1995 after emigrating from Hong Kong.

The same old neon sign still buzzes out front, but in Chan’s hands Sun Ming feels as fresh as the graphic design on the menus, and as comforting as a sizzling platter of tofu sauced with pork and mushroom laid over scrambled egg. Sticky fried rice with lap cheong is another signature, landing hot from the wok, the grains glistening.

Seafood is a must, be it live abalone under vermicelli or pipis in XO, while classic Hong Kong cafe fare is the move before midday. The lights are bright, and so is the future.

Best for: Take your pick from solo breakfasts to no-fuss family dinners

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